Arrrrrrived!

I did my night shift of “pirate watching” last night (this morning actually) and no pirates got on board. You’re welcome. Of course, none showed up either, but I would have been ready for them if they had! It was actually quite lovely outside in the middle of the night and not stiflingly hot yet. Towards 2am, one could see minute bands of light coming from the land which is Sierra Leone. This morning, I also had to report to the galley at 4:45 and we were, of course, closer to land but not quite on it.

Apparently, those in charge, and who have known we were coming for some time, decided to ‘ransom’ their own people’s lives for a few bucks. They demanded a chunk of money (I don’t personally know how much) for us to dock which was not previously part of the deal. If we don’t pay, we don’t dock; if we don’t dock, we don’t help anyone in their country. Are you seeing the same glitch in logic that I am seeing???

I guess this is not unusual for some of these corrupt country’s officials. I asked at breakfast prep what we would do if we refuse to meet their ransom demand and was told that any one of several other small countries would welcome us in a heartbeat. In fact, I was told, this happened a few years ago and Togo smiled and said, “come on down” or something like that. The ones that suffer then unfortunately are the people of SL, none of who, apparently, are with the local government. If that happens, we’ll just be on the water for another day or two until we reach someone who wants us and appreciates us. Until then, we float nearby the coast of Freetown, SL.

Somehow, I knew it would be awhile so I went to my cabin. While I slept off my pirate watch talking heads talked, money (may have been) exchanged, decisions were made, and a boat was docked. We still won't be able to disembark for several hours, until SL Customs goes through our papers and clears all of us.

As soon as we are allowed the pre-screening team will start its thing, interviewing potential patients from the town's people.

Galley Work

I’m a little disappointed and maybe a little confused but I’ll get over it. I found out today that I will not become a Hospitality Hostess when we get into Sierra Leone, as I had been led to believe. That’s the job I applied for, that’s the job I was ‘hired’ for, and that’s the job I’ve been looking forward to for at least a year (I’ve been planning the trip for 3 years). When I arrived, they needed galley and dining room people and those people came from the Hospitality Department, at that time. When we left Durban, we were to actually start in our appropriated jobs. Hostesses weren’t needed for hostess-ing but the hostesses were being trained for their tasks while preparing for arriving in SL. I was pulled out of that and asked to stay in the galley while at sea, as the galley needed the people. I was told by Peter, the boss over both departments, I would be staying in the galley for as long as I’m on the ship. I leave at the end of April. I will remain chopping veggies and scrubbing pots and pans. Alas, my dream of being the Julie McCoy of Africa is not to be…

As I continue to remind myself, this trip is not about me; it is about what He wants me to do for them. If that is to chop and scrub – so be it!

Our shifts will be changing as soon as we dock on Sunday. The galley has been on one day and off the next, using 2 distinct teams. Sunday will be our last day of working that shift schedule. My team will have Mon/Tue off go back to 3 on/2 off, with every other weekend free. This is so that everyone has equal opportunities for weekends off. One positive of staying with the galley, so I’ve been told, is that I will actually have more time to spend with patients and other guests of that nature, should I so choose. There is a kind of adopt-a-patient program where you can volunteer to spend time with those recuperating or even help with light medical assistance. Also, maybe I'll continue to lose weight!

Two other cool things coming up for which I heartily volunteered: patient acting for upcoming fire drills and pirate watching! There will be upcoming fire drills and the team leaders will need “patients” to practice leading them up stairways or using other emergency disembarking procedures. Also, night, from 11pm to 1am, I am on the volunteer pirate watch on the aft deck, complete with night vision goggles and radio and all. WooHoo! How fun does that sound?

Equator!

We crossed the Equator yesterday morning, but nothing to mark it with really. We’re still at sea, with no land visible, and the day is actually overcast.

The ship has been in training for several days now regarding what to expect (and what is expected of us) in Sierra Leone. Two of the crew members are from SL and have been ‘interviewed’ at great length as to what their people are like and enjoy and, conversely, what they might find offensive or confusing with our cultures. There are so many cultures already on board as it is and we have been learning how to live together without too many problems.

One of the issues for SL is clothing (not enough of it on our part, specifically) and we have been instructed to bring/wear more modest clothing than we are accustomed to as Americans (I can only speak for myself, of course).  I’ve also learned from Alice, our in-house Sierra Leonean and baker, whereas we tend to look people in the eye when we are addressing them, or at least the face, in SL people when tend to look away when they are addressed as a sign of respect. We must ask first when we wish to photograph someone. She also said that our tendency to get someone’s attention by shouting “Hey” at them would be considered very rude there.

As far as health issues, we have been advised not to drink water or have ice in our drinks and even some bottled water is actually just bottled “out back” and can be just as dangerous. Several brand name bottled waters are considered safer than others. We are not to go near or swim in fresh water sources as those are where the worst of the disease-carrying insects can be found. We have already been instructed to start our Malaria-preventative medications now although we are not expected to arrive in SL until this coming Sunday. We are to be met by some local government constituency at the dock and will join in the SL national song before disembarking. I’m so used to seeing photos and films that relay destitute and depressing visions from these small countries, I really don’t know what to expect: is it truly all like that or is that impression passed on as someone’s or some political agenda? I will have to see for myself – and share it with you.

There was an informational/devotional/preparation meeting and communion tonight after dinner. It was a commission of sorts to all of us to remember why we are here and for whom we have gone to the trouble of leaving our comfortable nests and families and to reaffirm our purpose here. Very moving.

Checked out the sky tonight – haven’t been out in the last few nights usually because I’m exhausted from the day. I was not able to see the Southern Cross, or at least not recognize it for what it is. A little bummed but still grateful for having been in a position to have seen it, finally, at all!

Until Sunday...

Sun and Moon

Followed some of the ‘kids’ out to the bow of the ship for a sunset view. I’m not a very good photographer but the photos of the sun going down were pretty darn cool, I thought. Must be the camera…

 Then had another Idea: I went aft on Deck 8 and waited for the moon and the Southern Cross. I’ve been fascinated by the Southern Cross since I understood the words to the Crosby, Stills & Nash song of the same name. I’ve always felt that it was one of the few perfect songs ever. Once I really understood all of the words I looked up the Southern Cross. It is a constellation that can only be seen in the southern hemisphere and has been a guide for sailors for untold years. I didn’t really ever expect to go to Africa just to see it, but when I started planning this trip, I knew this was my chance. I had no idea what to expect and I didn’t seen anything by the moon for some time. Again, I was surprised at how well some of the photos came across.

I was wrapped up in taking these when, all of the sudden I looked up and there it was. It was huge! I tried to photograph it was those did not come out. I was amazing and I couldn’t stop staring at it, directly above me, as if it were going to land on the ship. I’ve visited it every night since then and will probably continue to do so until I can’t see it any more. One of these nights I will go up to the pool deck, lie on one of the deck lounge chairs (since it’s difficult to keep looking straight up for a long time) and try to sketch it as correctly as possible.

Got out of town on a boat to the Southern islands

Sailing a reach before a following sea.

She was making for the trades on the outside

And the downhill run to Papeete.

Off the wind on this heading lie the Marquesas.

We got eighty feet of the waterline nicely making way.

In a noisy bar in Avalon I tried to call you,

But on a midnight watch I realized why twice you ran away.

I think about how many times I have fallen.

Spirits are using me, larger voices calling.

What Heaven brought you and be cannot be forgotten.

I have been around the world looking for that woman girl,

Who knows love can endure – and you know it will.

When you see the Southern Cross for the first time

You understand now why you came this way;

‘Cause the truth you might be running from is so small,

But it’s as big as the promise, the promise of a coming day.

So I’m sailing for tomorrow, my dreams are dying.

And my love is an anchor tied to you, tied with a silver chain.

I have my ship and all her flags are flying;

She is all that I have left and music is her name.

So we cheated and we lied and we tested,

And we never failed to fail – it was the easiest thing to do.

You will survive being bested;

Somebody fine will come along and make me forget about loving you at the Southern Cross.



Cape Town - Day 2

Today was just about the perfect day and definitely the best day since this trip began. I got off the ship about 8:30 and headed to the tourist bus station. On the way there I ran into some fellow shipmates heading the same way, so we walked together. The day was beautiful and clear, but not too hot and the bus was a double-decker with no roof for the top deck! John, Pat, Lloyd and I took our places on the top deck with perfect seats next to where the windows would be if there were any windows. We saw a number of interesting places and learned a few interesting facts about Cape Town:  Bartholomew Diaz, a Portuguese man, “discovered” this spot and named it the Cape of Good Hope. He didn’t stay here and the only real lasting connection to Portugal is some of the finest Portuguese food anywhere;   until 1947, what is now Strand street, and halfway into town from the water, WAS under water; St. George’s Cathedral was Desmond Tutu’s church and he always welcomed all people; in 1968, bulldozers displaced over 6000 people by destroying their homes in District 6 in order to create a nicer area, with absolutely no attempt to create an alternative for the displaced (apparently, they were in the way of some plans!); the idea that the Cape of Good Hope is at the apex of the Indian and Atlantic Oceans is a myth; and Robben Island (right off the coast of Cape Town) was a high-risk prison until 1991.

The fort (which used to be on the water but is now in the middle of town) never actually saw any military action.    

The only glitch in the day was when my camera died before we got to Table Mountain. The bus took us to the bottom of the cable car ride which then carried us up to the top of the mountain. This one (cable car ride) had to be 2 to 3 times the size of the one I rode in Chattanooga. I think the Palm Springs ride is more vertical though. The view was incredible and that’s not even an fitting description. There was a lady (Dagmar) who was stationed at a stone example of the mountain range, explaining the development of the different types of rocks in the mountains over the years. There was a small café with more of the amazing view and numerous small paths to take around the peak of this section of the mountain. Some people actually hike up to the top  - insane, I say. I did buy a one-time-use camera as to not miss out on photos because I thought my camera needed to be jazzed up by my laptop with a particular plug. It turns out that all I needed was a couple more AAAs. Oh comma well, as Rex used to say. When I get that camera developed, I promise to digress in my blog and show you the photos from the top.

When we descended back to the cable car station we got back on the bus and continued the tour. We went to another side of the island tip and around to the beautiful beaches on the other side including Hour Bay, Camps Bay, Cliffton, Bantry Bay and Sea Point. I found a couple of prospects for my (some day) winning of the lottery. When I move in there you’re all welcome (well, okay, most of you anyway). Anyone planning to visit here wants to look for hotels in the Camps Bay area; it’s all gorgeous, but Camps Bay is where the swimming beaches are located! If we had one more day, that’s where I would have been found. I also got some photos of the beaches and my future home on the other camera.

When we got back to the port, John bought me a perfect strawberry, double-thick shake and we headed back to the ship. I got just enough sun from the bus, but not burned, and we had to be back aboard by 3pm. Except for the camera snafu, it was a perfect day and made up for the no A/C and puking parts. Found a cozy spot to read a new book I bought in the mall while they handled the whole port-pilot-and-helicopter-thing again. With the sun and the walking and the lovely companionship to a perfect day (and the strawberry shake), I slept like a rock that night!

We will be on the water now for (I’ve heard) around 14 days until we reach Sierra Leone. Just under 3000 miles, I'm told. Galley work is back to every other day and we are seriously rocking and rolling but it’s okay now – I have my seasick drugs and those pressure-point things on my wrists!!!

Cape Town - Day 1

Our first time at sea (since I joined the ship) was only 3 days and they were marvelous, so I’ve been told. I had to be told this because I spent the entire time sick as a dog! My apologies to my roomies who had to hear me harking up in the bathroom and to others who had to witness the green pall in my skin (so I have also been told). My apologies also to the other galley staff who had to witness that ghastly gastric incident that second day! I don’t have any photos of that time period (I know, you’re welcome).

Anyway, we arrived in Cape Town none too soon, Sunday afternoon actually, to an incredibly beautiful, breezy, welcoming day! Apologies to anyone I mowed down trying to get off the ship…

Before we arrived in port, most of the ship was on deck seven watching the Cape of Good Hope approaching for the first half of the day. Wow! 

And my personal favorite:

Into the opening of the port, directly into a little haven of a town and shops. We proceeded forward and then the tug assigned to us pulled our tush around and pulled us into a dock placement, backside first. We got a tad wedged in the mud at one point and the tugs pushed sideways until we reached the dock.

The sea lion relaxing in the bumper where we docked was absolutely not concerned.

Next to our dock was a huge mall and a beautiful hotel on the end of the deck and port ($6 – 800 a night, thank you very much). When I blanched at the price the gal at the front desk told me that the price was negotiable. I told her “not that negotiable, trust me.”  It was nice that so much was very close, which was not the way in Durban.

The only think I could afford at the hotel was to get my eyebrows done in the spa – I was starting to look like Chubacca from Starwars. I feel human now that I’m properly waxed and tweezed.

I went into the mall to buy a few things and walk on ground that did not move. I found a fabulous restaurant and, since I was finally able to eat after 3 days of saltines, I had the seafood platter of 4 langostinos (baby lobsters), calamari, clams and some other fish. The sauce was marvelous but the little lobsters still had their heads and their eyes were staring at me. I tried looking elsewhere, like the view next to my table but they were still there when I turned back. I was so hungry and they were so yummy looking I finally gave up, named them John, Paul, George & Ringo and thanked them profusely for their delicious sacrifices!

I picked up a few more postcards and a few gifts in the mall and some sea sick drugs! I also took a long walk around one of the canals which took me further inland than I had planned, but I seriously needed the walk.

Walked around some more and found the following: a street band, a giant robot made of plastic Coke cases, a cool bell tower, some loud sea lions (reminded me of Pier 49 in Frisco), some fabulous condos on the water, Table Mountain, a cool canal system, and a nice tribute of statues of famous S. Africans who have won Noble Prizes (Tutu, Mandela, deKlerk, & Tiluli).

Before going back to the ship that night (since I didn’t have $600 for a hotel room) I stopped at a little café on the water for a Crème Brule.